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Fashion & Fetishism: Corsets, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture, by David Kunzle
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From corsets to codpieces, stockings to stilettos and piercing to push-up bras, fashion and sex have always enjoyed a very close relationship. This new edition of David Kunzle's rich and revealing history of corsetry and body sculpture shows how this neglected phenomenon is closely bound up with sexual self-expression. Drawing on sources as diverse as medical literature and popular magazine articles, this fascinating history shows how in many ways the use of the corset rejected the role of the passive, maternal woman - so that in Victorian times it was actually seen by many as a scandalous threat to the social order. Even today fashion designers recognise its subversive powers, as a symbol of eroticism, decadence and control. Taking in other curiosities such as ancient body decoration, male corsetry, masochism and foot fetishism, this is an often racy journey into the enigma of all those who sculpt the shape of their desires onto their bodies.
- Sales Rank: #3077673 in Books
- Published on: 2004-11-25
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.84" h x 1.08" w x 7.42" l, 2.59 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 384 pages
About the Author
David Kunzle is Professor of Art History at the University of California, Los Angeles. He is the author of The Early Comic Strip, Posters of Protest and Che Guevara: Icon, Myth, and Message. He is British-born and returns regularly to this country.
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Iconoclastic, densely researched, mythbusting study of sexuality in fashion focusing on corsetry
By Joseph A. Admire
In this brilliant, profusely illustrated, densely researched book, David Kunzle comprehensively and sympathetically, with the more-than-occasional flash of dry British humor, surveys the history of fetishism in fashion from prehistoric times to the Internet age (this review is of the 2004 hardback edition by Sutton Publishing; the most recent paperback printing by the History Press dates from 2006). His focus is most especially on the Victorian era through the early 21st century; he comments at several points that women's fashion in the 1870's was, in its emphasis on the feminine shape with various enhancements such as high heels and bustles, among the most explicitly fetish-oriented in fashion history. While he gives extensive attention to various articles of clothing, particularly shoes, that have been eroticized and fetishized, he concentrates, quite reasonably, on the corset, probably the most eroticized and fetishized of all items of costume - the subtitle of his book is "Corsets, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body Sculpture". (One chapter, "The Corset as Erotic Alchemy", is an expansion and update of a long essay that he wrote for the 1972 book "Woman as Sex Object", which is also available on the Amazon Marketplace.) As I mentioned in a comment on another review of this book several months ago, the footnotes are lengthy and highly detailed - Kunzle apologizes for their length but he shouldn't; these are among the best footnotes I've ever seen in any book, so much so that readers will find themselves consulting them as often as the main text, not least because they contain a wealth of additional information and commentary.
Received opinion among fashion historians, feminists, medical authorities, sociologists and much of the general public has long been that corsetry in general and tight-lacing in particular were both inherently oppressive of women and injurious to women's health. Kunzle (who writes from a left-wing, femininst perspective himself) thoroughly demolishes this conventional wisdom (recently expressed, for example, by Leigh Summers in her book "Bound To Please"), unearthing and discussing a significant body of evidence to demonstrate that (1) tight-lacing was always a minority interest rather than being the standard practice during the eras when corsets were standard in women's costume; (2) as opposed to simply being a matter of reducing women to a subservient position - though Kunzle acknowledges that this did occur - tight-lacing, especially in the Victorian era, was in truth often a method of sexual rebellion and liberation by both women and men; and (3) that much, indeed most, of the propaganda accusing tight-lacing of damaging women's health and bodies was exactly that, propaganda (and indeed, often poorly-researched and sometimes downright hysterical propaganda at that), written by social and religious conservatives who were alarmed by the transgressive and rebellious attitudes expressed by tight-lacing. In particular, Kunzle demolishes a lot of so-called expert medical opinion of the 19th century on the dangers of corsetry by demonstrating that those warnings were very often written by doctors who were, in fact, expressing their own prejudices rather than reporting the results of properly-conducted scientific and medical research.
20 of 20 people found the following review helpful.
A classic analysis of the corset and tightlacing
By chance
I first heard of David Kunzle's book through a review written by Angela Carter. The book puts forward what was a novel argument at the time it was written - namely, that use of the corset and tightlacing was not simply a sign of the social oppression of women, but that it was simulataneously a rebellion against that oppression. Particularly focussing on the Victorian era, he argues that use of the corset was subversive, in view of the socially sanctioned role for women as sexless 'angels in the house' - tightlacing being overtly sexual, and not seen as consistent with housewifely duties. He marshals an impressive array of data in support of this thesis, particularly from the vehement anti-feminist opposition. Fascinating social history - highly recommended.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Five Stars
By Molocco
Great book. Extremely detailed.
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